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Touring Everglades Backcountry

Q: Hi, I'm a native Floridian, fished Florida Bay out of Marathon lots, spent more time than I should have in Chokoloskee . . . down through the Lost Man's River area, etc., seeking the elusive sheepshead, snook and redfish in addition to trailing around after my father and his old-time Bay and Island friends. That was more than 30 years ago with just a few brief visits since.

Here's the challenge: I'll be bringing my husband, his sister and her friend (their first trip to Florida, my husband's second trip to south Florida) and, of course, I'm charged with showing everybody a good time. I'd like to get them a decent one-day backwater sightseeing-type boat trip out of Marathon or Islamorada (during the obligatory visit to Key West) and give them a real feel for the Florida Bay, Cape Sable, Flamingo areas. These folks aren't fishing types, but enjoy nature, history, ecology, sun and sand. Best suggestions? For 20 years, I've tried explaining Chokoloskee and the islands to my husband, but he still insists that I'm trying to drag him to a swamp. Are there any decent guides that can do a day trip out through the islands to Lost Man's and return? (I may be naively trying to create a sort of Peter Mathiessen kind of experience in a place that has turned completely scary since I left. You tell me.) And is there anyplace to stay in the area that doesn't have the slightly brown, really stinky tap water that I remember from my youth ... without going clear to Marco?

Thanks for your time and expertise. -- Cindy Ryan, Reno, NV

A: Cindy: First of all, what's a nice Florida girl like you doing in a place like Reno? Just kidding.

I'm sure you'll make an excellent guide for your husband and family. You're kind and courageous to take on the job.

After an exhausting (not quite exhaustive) search, I came up with a few places for you to check. I'll admit I haven't been led on a tour in the area, so I don't want to make a recommendation per se, and I don't know what your price range is, so when you call, please ask.

Everglades Excursions in Naples, 800-592-0848.

Backcountry Kayak Adventures explores the tidal creeks, 888-817-0841. (I don't think you have to go out on a kayak if you don't want to on this tour.)

Gale Force Charters in Sugarloaf Key, 305-745-2868.

Have fun, and please don't think we've gotten scary here.

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